Other than leaf problems, one of the most common issues gardeners have with tomato plants is a lack of tomatoes. Many of us who have grown lush bushy tomato plants have stared at them wondering, why won’t my tomato plants produce tomatoes?

So let’s talk about reasons why a tomato plant just won’t flower and fruit and what you can do to fix it.

Why Tomato Plants Make Flowers But Don’t Produce Fruit

First off, tomato gardeners have to have patience. After you plant your tomatoes in the ground, it will typically be a couple of months before you’ll be harvesting fruit. Every variety of tomato has a different time to fruiting which can be 90 days or more.

But how long before a tomato plant flowers? Tomato plants usually flower pretty quickly after planting, but those first flowers may not set a lot of fruit early in the season. This can be normal and should improve as the weather warms up. Can tomatoes flower too early? Only in the sense that low nighttime temperatures can affect their pollination.

Tomato flowers are complete flowers which means they have both a male part and a female part. This is what makes them self-pollinating, so you do not need pollinators to make tomatoes from flowers. But many environmental conditions, like relative humidity, can cause problems with the flower’s ability to self-pollinate.

A tomato will grow from the female part of the flower, and takes several weeks to ripen – depending on the variety. It’s really hard to be patient waiting for the fruit to ripen on your plant, but the first thing to do is to search your variety so you know the typical time to fruit for your particular tomato variety.

If your plant is giving lots of flowers but not producing tomatoes, then it’s time to consider one of these reasons for poor production of your tomato plants.

Extreme temperatures cause lack of fruit setting

A tomato plant will grow in a wide range of conditions, but temps on the extreme side can impact the number and quality of fruit your plant makes. If your nighttime temperatures are dropping into the 50s or daytime temperatures are in the 100s, then you’ll have issues with flowers being able to self-pollinate.

You may even see the flowers falling off the plant (aka blossom drop) without setting any fruit. Extremes in humidity will have a similar effect causing pollen to be too sticky or not sticky enough to fertilize the pistil. If temperature and humidity are affecting your tomato fruit set, you might just have to wait for the weather to become more cooperative. 

We usually plant tomatoes a week after our last frost date, but it’s still going to be too cold to expect a lot of fruit just yet. You may even want to place cold frames and frost protection over your plants in the first couple of weeks. If you know your area gets hot spells in the summer, plant your tomatoes where they will receive some afternoon shade or try growing under a shade cloth. In areas where there are no frost dates, you may have better luck planting your tomatoes in the fall as the hot weather is too much for tomato plants.

Other environmental causes for lack of flowers on your tomato plant include storms and strong winds that displace small blooms, fungal diseases present in the soil, and pest stress.

Water stress can cause blossom drop

One thing my husband used to say about gardening is to make sure I kept my watering in the Goldilocks zone…not too much and not too little but just right.

If your plants are having periods of drought and flooding, they’ll often respond by dropping their flowers. It’s best to water tomato plants evenly and regularly. Drastic changes in their watering schedule can lead to tomato fruit problems.

When possible, install drip irrigation at the base of your plants and soak the soil only when necessary. Depending on your environment, you may need to water every day or only once a week. Knowing how much to water your tomato plants is really a practice in observing your garden and getting to know the specific conditions that affect your plants.

Signs that your plant needs to be watered include dry soil (obviously), curling of leaves, sagging stems, and suckers that flop or fall over.

Pruning will help improve flowering and fruit set

Note that pruning is not recommended for determinate plants. Learn more.

Left to their own devices, indeterminate tomato plants can become enormous sprawling vines. Some gardeners prefer to grow their plants this way and have great results. But in my experience, letting them bush out leads to fewer and smaller fruit. Think about it as if you are a tomato plant, what is your purpose in life? It’s to reproduce by making tomatoes.

So when life is good and there’s plenty of space and nutrients to grow, then the tomato has no motivation to make fruit. It can continue to vine out and take up as much space as it needs. But if there’s any indication to the plant that it won’t be able to grow, then it will shift gears and start making more fruit. So I like to prune my indeterminate plants down to one or two vines.

This not only encourages it to put more effort into fruiting, but it removes some of the bulk of the plant and allows me to watch for issues like pests or disease.

Check your fertilizer for excess nitrogen

If you’re unfamiliar with the basic nutrition needs of plants, here is a great explanation and guide to using fertilizer. But in short, nitrogen encourages leaves to grow and phosphorous encourages fruit set. So if you’re using a fertilizer that has too high nitrogen concentration or lacks a full spectrum of nutrients, then your plants may not be setting as much fruit as you’d like.

I always prefer to use organic fertilizer because it’s much easier to get the dosing right. Synthetic fertilizers are often high in nitrogen which can lead to burning leaves and blossom end rot. But even if used appropriately, they can cause a low fruit set because there is too much nitrogen in relation to potassium.

Look for an organic fertilizer that has equal amounts of nitrogen and phosphorous (5-5-5) or has less nitrogen and more phosphorous (2-6-4). For a more detailed explanation of what those numbers mean, read this article.

Monitor for signs of pests and/or disease

There are many fungal, bacterial, and viral diseases that can affect tomato plants. Most often these are present in the soil in your area, and they are very hard to eradicate. The best thing to do is to inspect your tomato garden several times a week if not daily. Signs of infection that can stifle tomato production include wilting, stunted growth, spotted, yellow, or misshapen leaves.

It’s frustrating to find disease in your plants, but there are only two options once a plant is infected. Let it grow or pull it out. By the time you see infection, there’s not much you can do about it. Except in the case of lack of water, always pull out wilted tomato plants and get rid of them asap. Some forms of wilt will spread quickly if not removed, and sometimes even then it’s not enough.

For most diseases/infections, your plants will either tolerate the disease and grow through it or they’ll succumb to the stress and die. Any treatment you apply is really to prevent spread of the disease to other plants, although this is often an effort in futility. Tomato varieties often list what we call a disease-resistance package, and it’s recommended to choose plant varieties with resistance to diseases common in your area.

Heavy infestations of pests like aphids or spider mites can put additional stress on a tomato plant that can have an impact on fruit set. How you decide to implement pest control on your plants is a personal decision. On our farm, we like to use organic treatments like diatomaceous earth, spinosad, and Bt. If it gets really bad, we will use Pyganic but this is a very broad spectrum organic pesticide that we use only sparingly.

Should I remove flowers from tomato plants?

Generally, no you do not want to remove flowers unless you are trying to decrease the number of tomatoes you’ll get.

I’m sure there are some people who do this in certain circumstances, like early in the growing season. Why let the plant waste energy on flowers when it’s too cold to set fruit? I don’t know how much difference it would make in future fruit set, but I could understand the reasoning. Likewise, I know some people limit the number of fruit on a plant to encourage the fruit that does set to be larger/healthier. However, this is not something we do or recommend doing for tomatoes.

That’s why a tomato plant flowers but no fruit

With the exception of weather and disease, it is possible you can redirect your plant’s growth to encourage more fruit set with the above tips. If you’re new to gardening, then running through this list will help you learn to observe and respond to your plant as needed. Experience is really the biggest route to success with growing tomatoes, so even if you didn’t get a great crop this year, try again next year and the year after that. You’ll get better and better at it and enjoy it the whole time. Happy Gardening!

The post Reasons Your Tomato Plant Flowers But Has No Tomatoes appeared first on You Should Grow.

Dragon fruit is a cactus that has many names: pitaya/pitahaya, strawberry pear, belle of the night, cactus fruit, and night-blooming cereus. You’ve probably seen this strange looking fruit in the grocery store. The bright pink or yellow skin with alien-like spines is hard to miss. 

It might look intimidating, but the skin of this fruit is actually quite soft and the spines on the outside won’t stab you when you hold the fruit. And you’d never know from the look of it, but this is a fruit you can grow at home – if you’re willing to put in the work.

What zones does dragon fruit grow in?

Dragon fruit is an exotic fruit, and in most of the southern US, you can grow a dragon fruit plant in pots on your patio if you’re careful to protect it from cold weather. If you live in US Hardiness Zones 10-11, you’ll be able to grow dragon fruit outdoors year round.

But no matter where you live if you want to grow dragon fruit cactus, I say go for it! Just bring it indoors or keep it in a greenhouse during the cold months of the winter, and expect that the plant may not grow as fast, large, or be as productive as it would be in a more natural environment.

How To Grow Dragon Fruit

A dragon fruit plant needs a lot of sunlight. If you’re aiming for fruit, make sure it’s getting 8 or more hours of bright to direct sunlight during the fruiting season. In some climates or if grown indoors, you may need to supplement with artificial lighting. If you’re not aiming for fruit, your plant will grow in less light but it won’t grow as fast or make flowers.

As a plant native to South America, the dragon fruit plant likes a warm environment and is sensitive to extremes. The ideal growing temperatures for dragon fruit are between 65 and 85 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything below 32F will kill your plant. Anything over 100F will damage the fruit and cause it to wilt.

Dragon fruit cacti are climbers, so you’ll need to provide support for your plant to grow on. As it climbs, it will root into the support you provide, and it can be invasive if grown in the wrong location. Watering the pole when you water the plant will greatly improve results.

Overwatering is the quickest way to kill your dragon fruit. So only water when the top 1/3-1/2 of the soil is dry, but the plant is not wilting. Unlike other cactus, you don’t want to wait until the whole pot is dry – if your plant is withering or wilting, you’ve waited too long. Letting the plant wilt causes stress and will decrease flower/fruit production.

A drip line or mister from above works well for plants climbing on poles. To accomplish this, install a drip line and attach it to the center support in your container. Place the drip nozzle at the top of the support line and let it run down the pole. This is the most effective way to water your dragon fruit and will keep it very happy.

Fertilizing dragon fruit

Cacti are low maintenance plants. They are not heavy feeders and do not require a lot of fertilizer. In fact, over fertilization will harm your plant. Choose an organic, low nitrogen fertilizer and apply at planting and then every other month…even less in the winter.

Learn how to tell if your fertilizer is low in nitrogen with these fertilizer tips.

Growing dragon fruit in a container

This plant is best grown in a container in most environments. The container allows you to control the content and the moisture level of the soil more efficiently. When mature, these plants will need a container that is at least 10 inches deep and 24 inches wide. This equates to about a 10-gallon pot. Younger plants and stem cuttings, can be started in smaller pots and up-potted when they are more mature.

Dragon fruit, also known as Pitaya, is a vining cactus, so you will need to provide a sturdy support in your container. Otherwise, the cactus will grow over the edges of your container and sprawl along the ground until it finds something to climb.

Make sure to use a sandy, well-draining soil made for cactus plants. Any soil that holds too much moisture can lead to root rot. If your container does not have several drainage holes, then you will need to add them so the roots of the plant never become soggy.

If outdoors, pick a sunny location for your dragon fruit plant that provides at least 6-8 hours of sun. The plant will tolerate some shade, and may even require it in very warm environments – remember, anything over 100 degrees Fahrenheit will damage your fruit. When grown indoors, you’ll want give it the sunniest location you have (and/or supplement with artificial light).

Growing dragon fruit as a houseplant

Only recently have I seen plant shops offering small clusters of dragon fruit stems for sale as houseplants. They actually do make really cute little plants for your home or office. And if your expectation is that it will just be a houseplant, I don’t see why you shouldn’t add one to your collection.

These houseplant sized dragon fruit are not going to produce fruit for many years, but that is many years of growing pleasure you can still enjoy. These baby sized plants require the same care that adults do – minimum 6 hours of sunlight (more sunlight will make them grow faster, less will slow them down) and only water as needed. This may be once every week to once per month depending on the conditions in your home (brighter light needs water more often, low light less often) and the time of year (water needs decrease in the winter).

If you’re growing it as a houseplant, you can wait until the plant wilts before watering as you are not concerned about flowering/fruit. As long as you step in before it’s too dried out, it will perk up after you give it a drink. This does cause some stress to the plant, but it’s less stress than root rot. 

Dragon fruit flowers and fruit

One of the coolest things about the dragon fruit is its flowers. They are stunning ruffled white blooms, and what’s more, they are night blooming. That’s right, the blooms open after dark and only for one night! 

Dragon fruit plants that flower but don’t produce fruit are a common complaint of growers. This happens because most dragon fruit flowers are incomplete and require pollination. Some plants even require cross-pollination by unrelated varieties (just like blueberry plants) and still some others are self-pollinating. 

If you choose a variety that is not self-pollinating, then you will need to attract pollinators like bees, moths, or bats to pollinate them for you. If grown indoors, you’ll have to stay up at night or get up really early to pollinate the plants yourself. For home growers, the simplest course is to choose a self-pollinating plant.

When to prune dragon fruit

If you’re giving your dragon fruit optimal conditions for growth, then you will quickly find that your plant has grown so thick and so fast that it needs to be pruned. Pruning dragon fruit is usually done in the fall or as necessary to contain the plant within your desired space.

Letting the plant get too crowded will lead to problems with pests, fungus, and disease. Not only do crowded plants need more maintenance (watering and fertilizer), but they also do not produce as much fruit. Pruning the plant actually stimulates flowering and new growth, so it is a task you are encouraged to do.

Propagating dragon fruit from cuttings

The good news is that pruning your plant provides a bunch of new plants to grow or share. Sure, you can start dragon fruit seedlings from the seeds inside the fruit, but it is slow and has a frustratingly low success rate. Because of this, it is recommended that you grow dragon fruit from cuttings. 

To grow dragon fruit from a cutting, take a piece of a stem at least 12 inches long. Place the cutting into some well-draining soil mix burying 2 inches of stem under the soil. Water it only when the soil is dry and roots will form within 2-4 weeks. Once you see new growth, you know your cutting has established a healthy root system and it can be left or transplanted as needed.

When you’re ready to transplant, be gentle with the roots of your cutting and try not to disturb them too much. Gentle loosening of the small roots on the surface of the rootball is adequate. Plant your dragon fruit in fertile, sandy soil level with the rootball.

Types and varieties of dragon fruit

There are many varieties of dragon fruit that range in color, flavor, and production. Some dragon fruit need to be hand pollinated, some rarely set fruit even when pollinated. Some take longer to ripen, and some take a very short period to ripen.

It’s best to research which variety will work best for the conditions you intend to provide. Then you’ll want to make sure you are dealing with a reputable nursery or good friend. Make sure you trust that they are being honest about the type/variety of cutting you’ll receive.

• Hylocereus undatus (Pitaya blanca) is the most commonly grown in commercial fruit production settings. It produces the bright pink fruit with white flesh.
• Hylocereus costaricensis is a variety known for bright pink to red fruit and matching flesh. 
• Hylocereus megalanthus produces yellow fruit with white flesh.
• Hylocereus guatemalensis has a deep pink fruit with pink spines and a bright purple flesh.
• Hylocereus polyrhizus has a beet red flesh and skin
• Hylocereus stenopterus is an uncommon variety that produces green fruit with white flesh
  

How to tell when dragon fruit is ripe

Once your dragon fruit plant sets fruit, wait to harvest it until it turns color. Most dragon fruit will turn a gorgeous bright pink magenta color, but some are bright yellow.

In general, the longer it stays on the plant, the sweeter it gets. In most cases, a dragon fruit takes about 30 days to ripen.

Dragon fruit pests and problems

When grown indoors, dragon fruit plants can get in trouble with mealybugs, mites, aphids, and sometimes ants. If given the opportunity, ants will attempt to eat your fruit before you can harvest it, so watch out for those nasty pests! Treat pests with an appropriate pesticide as soon as you see them to prevent a major infestation. Here are some natural methods of ant control to consider.

Another common problem of dragon fruit grown at home is root rot caused by overwatering. This is one of the reasons why it’s recommended to grow pitaya in containers vs in the ground. Watch the soil to make sure it’s draining well, and only water when the top 1/3-1/2 of the container is completely dry but before the plant is wilted. 

Dragon fruit recipes

This white flesh of this exotic fruit is really unique and yummy! It is super hydrating and especially satisfying when chilled, and the tiny black seeds add a nice crunch to the soft and creamy texture of the flesh. Aside from the deliciously delicate flavor, the fruit of a dragon fruit tree is has many health benefits. It’s full of antioxidants, easy-to-digest carbohydrates, and omega fatty acids in the seeds.

There are many ways to use dragon fruit including sauces, salads, and smoothies, but it’s also quite good sliced in half and eaten out of its skin with a spoon. Truly, eating your dragon fruit is the best part of growing it. A chilled fruit tastes much better, in my opinion. Slice your fruit in half and eat it out of its shell like a bowl of ice cream. So amazingly delicious!

Dragon fruit tastes great in all sorts of recipes. Try one of these.

The post How To Grow Dragon Fruit At Home appeared first on You Should Grow.

These denser tomatoes make your work easier as you’ll need fewer tomatoes and less time to make your sauces. Among tomato nerds like us, we call canning tomatoes with these qualities plum tomatoes or paste tomatoes.

What type of tomato is best for salsa?

Paste tomatoes have characteristics that are desirable for making sauces and salsas. These tomatoes have less juice, gel, and seeds which cuts down on processing time.

They’re also often grown on determinate, bushy plants that have high yields in a short period of time. This is desirable since you want to be able to preserve the crop in batches.

Some say paste tomatoes are mild in flavor, but this is not necessarily a bad thing. The flavor will be somewhat intensified as you condense the tomato into a sauce, and a mild tomato makes sauces that don’t overpower the flavor of the rest of your ingredients.

One variety of paste tomatoes that many people are familiar with is the Roma tomato. Romas are a great salsa tomato, and you’ll see lots of similar varieties of tomatoes referred to as Roma type.

Another commonly recommended paste tomato is the San Marzano. San Marzanos are praised for their flavor and texture which are ideal for homemade tomato paste, sauce, or salsa.

The problem with paste tomatoes

The thing you don’t really hear talked about is that home gardeners often find that these tomatoes are hard to grow.

That’s because they’re very prone to diseases that can wipe out an entire crop which is terrible when you’re trying to grow food for your family. Paste tomatoes are also notorious for struggling with blossom end rot which makes the tomatoes unusable.

We’ve grown dozens of varieties of paste tomatoes, and we know that some plants will get blossom end rot (BER) on every single fruit. It’s incredibly frustrating!

Blossom end rot is a complex disease process that has a lot to do with how you grow your tomatoes, but some types of tomatoes are more prone to the disorder than others.

For example, elongated tomatoes with pointy ends (like San Marzano) are very prone to BER whereas cherry and heart-shaped tomatoes are very resistant.

Growing tomatoes for canning sauces and salsas

For best results growing paste tomatoes, make sure you’re burying your tomato stems as deep as possible leaving only 2-3 sets of leaves above ground. Mulch the base of your plants heavily to help block weeds and prevent moisture loss.

The way you fertilize them will affect their growth. To make healthy plants that bear lots of fruit, fertilize at planting with a nitrogen-rich fertilizer and then switch to potassium-rich fertilizer when they start making tomatoes and repeat as needed every 4-8 weeks.

It’s incredibly frustrating as a family that eats A LOT of tomatoes, that we haven’t found a really good producer in the paste tomato category.

So I went on the hunt for some paste varieties of tomatoes that are resistant to disease AND least likely to get BER. These suggestions are from seed companies and fellow tomato nerds who grow and trial many types of tomatoes to find what works the best.

Some are hybrids and some are heirloom tomatoes. If you’re not sure what that means, check out this video:

Best hybrid tomatoes for canning

Big Mama – A beast of a tomato made for dicing, this is a very popular variety for home canners. Known to be a great producer of meaty gargantuan fruits some say this is the best tomato for salsa.

Little Mama – Grow an impressive cluster of small roma-type tomatoes on indeterminate plants with this variety. It’s said to be easy to grow and a heavy producer.

Granadero f1 – an indeterminate variety, this hybrid has a killer disease package. It’s a heavy producer of extremely uniform medium-sized tomatoes with great flavor.

Pozanno F1 – another indeterminate that has incredible resistance to diseases and is not prone to blossom end rot. Has the classic San Marzano shape but doesn’t give in to long, hot summers.

Gladiator hybrid – if you’re looking for a larger paste tomato, consider growing this indeterminate variety by Burpee. This is a Roma type, but quite a bit larger and, despite its large size, is supposed to be good for patios and smaller gardens.

What heirloom tomato is best for salsa?

Heirloom tomatoes are great because they provide tried and true harvest for your salsa canning. Here are some great heirloom, or open-pollinated, varieties that you can choose from.

Amish Paste Tomato – praised for its sweet flavor and heavy fruit set, this classic heirloom tomato is an excellent choice for your favorite salsa recipe.

Marzano fire – A striking yellow-striped red tomato that has shown great disease resistance. This variety, bred in southern California by Fred Hempel, is loved by many who grow it.

Rio Grande – bred to be tolerant of both hot and cold temperatures, this determinate plant sets lots of red, 6-8 oz tomatoes. The thick meaty tomatoes have a mild flavor but are great for canning into paste, salsa, and sauces.

Saucey tomato – An early producer of heavy yields of small red meaty tomatoes with great flavor. The fruit keeps well on the vine so you can harvest all at once.

Goldman’s Italian American tomato – a very large thick-walled pear-shaped tomato that is great for canning. A unique heirloom variety that has an excellent flavor for saucing.

Santa Maria – a somewhat rare indeterminate Italian heirloom paste tomato that has an excellent sweet flavor. It’s meaty and has few seeds to make canning easier.

Heidi – Excellent flavor and resistance to blossom end rot are the winning features of this tomato. Although the tomatoes are on the small side, the plant is very productive.

Oroma – A very dense, not too juicy, long-holding tomato originally released by OSU. Has excellent resistance to BER despite its oblong nippled shape. I’ve heard great things about this nearly seedless paste tomato.

San Marzano Redorta – large Italian heirloom paste tomato with a great taste and impressive disease resistance.

Can you use any type of tomatoes for salsa?

Sure! Feel free to mix the types of tomatoes in your sauce or homemade salsa. If you don’t have enough Roma-type tomatoes, don’t hesitate to chop up a hefty beefsteak tomato.

One of the best things about growing your own tomatoes for canning is that you can mix in several different varieties to make your salsa. This can improve the flavor and texture of your home canned goods.

Are green tomatoes good for salsa? If you’re talking about green-when-ripe, then sure! They make a beautiful salsa, though their flavor tends to be more tart but I encourage you to try it. However, green tomatoes as in unripe tomatoes are not recommended for fresh eating.

Are grape tomatoes or cherry tomatoes good for salsa? They’ll taste good, but it will take a lot of tomatoes and chopping to get enough sauce or salsa to preserve.

So if you’re looking for the best types of tomatoes to mix together for salsa, I recommend trying a few different varieties and seeing which ones you like the best. Experimenting with mixing different types of tomatoes to add sweetness, acidity, and texture to your favorite recipes, is just one of the pleasures of making it at home.

You could also try adding some of your favorite flavored slicing tomatoes or roast some cherry tomatoes to add flavor to your sauce. You can always freeze some tomatoes as the harvest is coming in and use them later on when you’re ready. There’s no right or wrong combination of tomatoes for making sauce, just use what you like to eat.

What is the difference between Roma tomatoes and regular tomatoes?

Paste and Roma-type tomatoes are best for salsa because they have a denser fruit with less juice and fewer seeds. When you dice other tomatoes, you end up with a big mess of seeds, juice, and gel. All of that part gets removed if you’re making fresh tomato salsa. With less of that wasted portion and a thicker, firmer flesh, these types of tomatoes provide more meat for your recipes.

Are Roma tomatoes good for slicing?

Although they’re not categorized as a slicing tomato, they are great for this purpose. For the same reasons mentioned above (less seeds, juice, and gel), you will enjoy adding fresh slices of Roma tomatoes to your salad or sandwich.

Got another paste tomato to recommend?

Share it in the comments!

The post 14 Best Tomatoes For Salsa, Canning, And Sauces appeared first on You Should Grow.

If indulging in homegrown tomatoes is the goal, then starting tomatoes from seed is the best way to get there. Starting tomato seeds indoors allows you to control the earliest moments of your tomato plant’s life.

Healthy, happy seedlings do better at transplanting and yield a better crop. Store bought plants may have been mislabeled, treated with chemicals, or stressed and this can really affect the results you get at home.

Growing Tomatoes From Seeds

Tomatoes are actually not hard to start from seed, but there are a few tricks of the trade that can help you get better results.

So in this article, we’ll go over:

● The ideal conditions for germinating tomato seeds
● How to take care of tomato seedlings in their first weeks of life
● Answers to common questions about starting tomato seeds

Before you get ready to start your tomato seeds, you first must choose some tomato varieties for your garden. Not all tomatoes are created equal, so it’s good to do your research before your pick among the thousands of choices.

When To Start Tomato Seeds

You’re shooting for 4-6 weeks before your last frost. You can start them earlier, but any less than 4 weeks and you might not have enough season to get fruit off your plants.

If you’re new to gardening, using seed starting calculators is super helpful. But if you’ve been gardening a while and know your approximate frost dates, start your plants 1-2 months prior to your last spring frost.

For example, in our area of Georgia, we start planting in April. So I know we need to have our tomatoes going by March. My sister lives in New Jersey where the last frost can come as late as mid May. So all of her tomato seeds should be planted starting in April.

What You Need To Grow Tomatoes From Seed

First things first, make sure you have all your supplies. You don’t need any special equipment here, but investing in some basic seed starting supplies definitely helps improve your results.

Recommended supplies:
● Seeds
● Germinating mix
● Containers + dome lid or plastic bag
● Labels
● Heat mat w/ thermometer (recommended, but not necessary)
● Shop light or grow light

How To Sprout Tomato Seeds

Step 1: Fill your container with premoistened germinating mix all the way to the top.

Especially if you’re using a soilless germinating mixture, wetting it down before you fill your containers makes sure that you get even moisture throughout.

Prevent air pockets (where roots can’t grow) by tapping your container to make sure soil settles into all the spaces. Top off with more germ mix if needed.

Step 2: Put seeds in the container

There’s not a real science to this, but you can do a few things to ensure the best results.

➤ Don’t set your seeds too deep. If you push your seeds too deep, they may have trouble popping out of the soil. I use my pointer finger to do this: up to the nail bed but not past the first knuckle.

➤ Don’t crowd them. It’s okay to put multiple seeds into your container, but if they’re too close the roots will get all tangled. You can always cut some out, but if you want to keep all your seedlings, make sure there’s enough space to separate them later.

➤ Do cover them lightly with germ mix or vermiculite.

Step 3: Label container

I recommend putting the variety name, number planted, and date planted.

Step 4: Soak them with water, then cover the container

Give your freshly planted seeds a healthy watering. You don’t want them swimming in soggy soil, but you do want to make sure they maintain some moisture.

Placing a dome lid over your tray or putting your tray in a bag will help keep the moisture in and slow drying.

Step 5: Set them on a heat mat

Here’s where the supplies you choose can make or break your results. To maintain temperature an ideal soil temperature of 80-85 degrees, you really need a heat mat.

If you do use a heat mat, make sure you get one with a thermometer so you can accurately control the soil temperature and not burn them up.

Just setting your seeds inside your house is probably warm enough but you can give them a boost by placing your seed tray on top of your refrigerator.

FYI: Don’t try to use a heating pad, they get way too hot and it’s really easy to cook your seeds and seedlings.

At cooler temperatures (75-80F), you can expect germination to be slower and less consistent-meaning some of your seeds may not sprout. Give them up to 10-14 days to sprout if you’re not using a heat source.

Step 6: Put up a light

Tomatoes don’t need light to germinate but hanging it on day one means it’s there as soon as that first seeding appears. Waiting to hang the light can lead to problems…namely long leggy stems.

You can use a regular shop light with a bright white bulb or buy a seedling specific grow light. Hang the shop light just a couple of inches above your seedling trays. If you’re using, bright LED grow lights you don’t want them quite as close.

Growing tomatoes from seed FAQs

How many tomato seeds per container?

This is up to you, but here’s my recommendation. If they are brand new seeds and you have a heat mat set up, you’ll probably get close to 100% germination. So plant exactly what you need plus maybe one or two more.

If the seeds are old, were saved at home not using fermentation, or if you don’t have a heat mat set up, plant a few extra just in case they don’t all come up.

If you plant extra seeds and they all pop, cut out the weakest sprouts and leave only what you need.

How long does it take for tomato seeds to sprout?

It will take as few as 2 and up to 10 days for your seeds to sprout.

Do I need to fertilize tomato seedlings?

Seedlings will need fertilizer once they are about 2 weeks old. We usually don’t fertilize until after we’ve transplanted them from the small cell seed starting trays.

Caring for tomato seedlings after they sprout

Once they sprout, continue to check on your seedlings daily. Sprouted tomato seedlings simply need water and light for the next week or two.

Keep them covered and on heat to facilitate sprouting and water when the top of the soil appears dry. After 10 or more days have passed (or when all the seeds sprout), you can remove the lid and pull them off the heat mat.

After your seeds have sprouted and are about two weeks old, you’re ready to move on to part two of growing tomatoes from seed: how to transplant your seedlings.

Questions about starting tomato seeds?

Cool. I’m on it! Leave me a comment or join my Facebook group to get help.

The post Growing Tomatoes From Seeds: The Complete Guide appeared first on You Should Grow.

So if you think you have a black thumb, the good news is that you might just need to stop doing these things.

You’re overwatering

Overwatering, not underwatering, is the most common mistake houseplant owners make. Soggy roots are a death trap for any plant, and some more so than others. This is why it’s important to ask questions or do research on the type of plant you’re growing.

Peace lilies don’t like to dry out, but they don’t like wet bottoms either. Succulents of all kinds will not tolerate consistently wet soil. Pothos can dry out to the point of wilting and bounce back after a good soak, but alocasia is not so forgiving. So there is no one size fits all recommendation for watering houseplants.

What should you do if you think you’ve overwatered your houseplant?

You’ll often bring home a plant from the store that is or has been overwatered. It’s important to check because big box stores are notorious for trying to kill their inventory.

There are a couple of ways to handle an overwatered plant. If it seems like the soil is staying soggy, make sure there is a drainage hole for water to escape. If not, change the pot stat. If you have your plant in a nursery pot, pull it out of the cover pot (if in one) to get more air to the bottom of the pot. You can also supplement light to increase the uptake of water.

If those things aren’t working, and it’s looking really puny, it’s time for diagnostics. To find out what’s going on, remove the plant from the pot and brush off the soil to check the roots for evidence of rot. Remove anything that is brown and mushy, you can even rinse off the roots in the sink to clean it up. Then when you repot it, replace the old soil with new, better draining soil.

You’re not fertilizing your houseplants

In fresh soil, many houseplants won’t need to be fertilized often. But if it’s growing rapidly or has been in the same soil for several months, chances are the nutrients in the original mix are depleted. And if you’re growing your plants in water, they definitely won’t be getting everything they need without some addition of food. However, over-fertilizing can and will kill your plant no matter what so you need to exercise some caution.

1. Always follow the directions on the bottle – dilute it just as recommended unless you’re very familiar with the brand and the plant.
2. Buy fertilizer formulated for the type of plant that you’re growing. This makes it easy not to overdo it for plants that don’t need as much supplemental food, like succulents.
3. A good rule of thumb is to fertilize once per month. You can skip a few in the winter if your plant is slowing down, or if you can keep conditions right for it to grow year-round, keep the once monthly schedule.

You’re not giving them enough light

I had a pothos growing in possibly the darkest room that ever existed. Seriously. All windows were under porches, and I was forever shocked that it was doing so well. But some plants won’t tolerate such low light conditions. If your plant is not growing and/or the leaves are changing color (green to yellow or losing variegation), then your plant may be begging for supplemental lighting.

How to add more light to your houseplants?

Fortunately, it couldn’t be more simple to add supplemental light to your plants. I have used regular lamps with full spectrum light bulbs, individual halo lights, hanging light bars, and under-shelf light kits. I’ve bought grow light bulbs in person at the grocery store, walmart, and homedepot. There are also innumerable options online.

When you set up the light, pay attention to how far away it is from the plant. I have a grow light bulb in the fixture over my sink, and it’s fine for the peace lily and the pothos, but my succulents were getting anemic. I brought in a halo light but it was still not very bright. I had to bring it right down as close as possible to the plant. LEDs are nice because they don’t produce much if any heat, however, make sure to check for heat on any light you choose. With seedlings, we keep the lights 2-4 inches away, but this may be too close for plants that prefer indirect light. Pay attention to your plant and move it closer or further depending on how it responds.

Their location is too drafty

Naturally, we all locate live plants next to windows and windowed doors so they can receive the most light. But some plants are going to be VERY sensitive to drafts and fluctuations in temperature. This is especially true in the winter since most houseplants won’t tolerate freezing temperatures. So if your plant is dropping leaves, think about whether it’s getting blasted with cold air every time you open your door. Or if your house is old, like mine, is it generally too cold in the window during winter?

Cold and wet soil is a recipe for disaster so think about whether you should move them or provide supplemental heat if your plants are suddenly not doing well. In all seasons, make note of whether you’re plants are in the path of air coming from your a/c vents. Heated air blowing from your vents directly onto plants is not going to be well tolerated – it will cause them to dry out a lot faster and make your work harder.

You’re not rotating your plant

Unless you’re supplementing with overhead light, it is natural for plants to grow toward light coming in through the window. So to keep your plant nice and fluffy, you’ll want to rotate your plant about a quarter of a turn once per month – or if you notice it leaning into the light. Rotation helps keep the growth even all the way around and keeps its stem strong.

You’re moving them too much

I’m not referring to rotating, here, I mean you’re moving it from one room or window to another. A houseplant lives a pretty passive life. From the time it sprouts to the time it gets to your home, it is moved from location to location and often needs time to adjust. From one place to another, the lighting and temperature might change drastically. The watering schedule might change drastically, too. It has no control, it just gets plopped in a room and has to adjust or die.

So one of the things to do if you have recently moved a plant is simply to let it be. Give a plant at least 2 weeks to adjust to a new spot before you try moving it again. Obviously, if there are clear signs of illness, you’ll want to step in. But if it just seems a little stressed and you recently moved it, give it a little break. You’ll still be watering it, but don’t worry too much if you see it drop a leaf or two, or start to turn a little yellow. If it bounces back after a couple of weeks, it just needed to pout a bit. Careful watching and waiting can be your friend to make sure you’re giving your plant exactly what it needs.

How often should houseplants be moved?

Some plants don’t ever want to be moved especially if they’ve found themselves a sweet spot. I’m looking at you, fiddle leaf fig. But if you need to move your plants around, shoot for about once a year. Some plants won’t bat an eye at being moved around, but if you are moving them and notice that some are not thriving, consider whether they’re being moved too often or to the wrong place.

You’re not checking for pests

I don’t know about you, but I spend a lot of time inspecting my plants. I like to touch them, lift them up and look under the leaves, poke my finger in the soil, etc. Seriously. They get no privacy. But one of the reasons I do that is so I can recognize any pest problems early.

Certainly, we should be checking any new plants we bring home for signs of pests and disease. Looking under the leaves in the store and after you get home is recommended. If you see any webs on the plants, run away. Far, far away. Many pests look like small or tiny white specs or fuzz. It’s not a bad habit to treat new plants with pesticide and put them in quarantine before you introduce them to their new friends.

What should you do if you find pests on your houseplants?

First and foremost, you should spring into immediate action. If you can do nothing else, take the infected plant to a place where you can isolate it from your other plants. Then get your hands on some form of pesticide.

Personally, while I’m not for using pesticides on my vegetables, I have no feelings against using them on my houseplants. I’m not eating them, and I don’t, as a rule, keep pollinators indoors. I will not tolerate bugs making their home in my home, and I won’t let them ruin my happiness by eating my planties, either. Which one to use? If you can identify the pest, use one directed to kill that pest. If not, just pick one labeled for houseplants and follow the directions on the bottle.

You’re not dusting the leaves

I often forget to dust shelves, fans, etc in my house, but I do wipe the leaves on my plants with some consistency. I saw an influencer, I believe it was Plants With Krystal (I love her). She uses microfiber gloves to clean her plant leaves, and that is what I do now as well. It’s so easy to wipe both sides of the leaves gently and wiping alone often gives them a nice shine. You can dampen the gloves with a little water if you wish, but I personally don’t use anything other than water.

You’re not pruning them

It may seem counterintuitive, but many plants will respond positively to pruning. In a lot of cases, you can even cut them completely down, and they’ll sprout several new branches in response. Anyone dealing with wild privet and oak trees can attest to this. For the most part, houseplants are the same way.

So if you have a plant that is really stretched out and sparse in foliage, do not hesitate to thin out some of the branches. Propagate them or compost them if you wish, but cutting back your houseplants will stimulate new growth almost every time. Add in some extra light and they’ll bush out nicely. Alternatively, thick bushy plants can harbor moisture or pests in their leaves so it’s a good idea to cut them back to encourage airflow and check for nasty buggers.

You’re inconsistent

Last but not least, if you’re not paying attention to your plants and alternate underwatering with overwatering, for example, it could be the reason your plants are stunted or growing poorly. It’s the same with light, humidity, and temperature. All of these conditions in their environment influence how they grow. It can affect the small hairs on the plant, called trichomes, the size, shape, and color of leaves, the thickness of the stem, and so on.

Many times, they’ll acclimate to a certain set of conditions and a sudden change in that can cause stress. It’s best to understand what your plant likes and provide that care consistently. Otherwise, it may not die, but it definitely won’t be able to thrive. If and when you do have to change your plant’s environment, understand that it may need time to reacclimate to its new situation.

I hope this has helped you understand what may be going wrong when you bring plants into your home. If you’re worried about a plant you’re growing indoors, don’t hesitate to put on your planterinarian hat and dive in. Oftentimes just by careful observation, you can figure out and fix a problem before you lose another plant pal.

The post 10 Reasons Your Houseplants Are Dying appeared first on You Should Grow.

Ready to grow your own hairy tomatoes from seed? Start here.

Tomato plant hairs are actually trichomes.

Your tomato plants are covered in trichomes. Some are long and look like white fuzz on your tomato stem. In the photo below, you can see the glossy strands of the long trichomes poking out all around the stem.  But there are also super tiny ones that look more like little bubbles covering the surface of the tomato plant. Those bubbles are actually perched right on top of super tiny trichomes.

Why do tomatoes have trichomes?

Tomatoes have trichomes to help protect them from pests and disease. The tiny trichomes on tomato plants are like glands that secrete essential oils which give tomato plants their wonderful scent. It is precisely that scent that aims to repel some pests. The tomato plant can react to times of stress by altering the compounds within its trichomes to attempt to deter critters that may want to chomp on it. It is presumed that the pests find the taste, scent, or texture of the essential oils unappealing. If you’ve grown tomatoes before, you know this is not a fail-proof method by any means. But who knows how many more pests would be present without the distasteful oils.

The leaves and fruit of tomato plants are also covered in trichomes. As with the stem, there are trichomes on tomato fruit and leaves that keep them coated with essential oils. Trichomes and their oils form a barrier to prevent bacterial, fungal, and viral infection in addition to trapping water and reducing evaporation.

That’s pretty cool, huh?

Why do tomato plant trichomes matter to gardeners?

It is important to understand the role of the trichomes so that you can be cautious not to damage this protective layer. When pruning your tomatoes, be careful not to squeeze or scrape your plants. Your tomato plant can repair itself, but the wound is an invitation for infection to enter. The damaged area is without the protection of trichomes until the plant can form a scar over the wound.

You may also notice that oils will also begin to accumulate on your hands and fingers during pruning. It starts out as yellow, and as it becomes caked on your skin, it turns black.

Trichomes are to blame for tomato fingers.

If you’ve worked with your tomatoes, you know what I’m talking about! A dirty black film builds up on our hands when you’ve been handling your tomato plants. It happens when you plant, prune, tie up, or harvest. The more time you spend with your tomatoes, the more it gets caked on your fingertips. Some people call it tomato tar.

I call it Tomato Fingers!

These fingers are somewhere in between the green and black stage. Probably with some red clay mixed in. But you get the idea.

It is the build-up of the compounds on the trichomes that make that nasty film.

Remember that the trichomes secrete essential oils? Those oils are what become stuck to your finger and nails. They’re very sticky, and they don’t wipe off easily.

If you are familiar with this stuff, you also know that hand soap seems to just slide around on top of it. That is because the oils are not water-soluble. And don’t try to wipe it off with your hand towels because it will stain them!

I use rubbing alcohol or an alcohol-based hand sanitizer and paper towels to scrub off as much as I can. With the crust wiped off, you can more easily get your hands clean. The alcohol dissolves the oils and makes it easier to wash your hands clean with soap and water.

Trichomes are a tomato’s best self-defense

Isn’t that cool that tomatoes can defend themselves with hair?! I am in awe of all the beautiful ways mother nature solves problems. The tomatoes needed a way to defend themselves. They don’t have arms or legs or brains, but they have hair. And they made that work. That’s neat.

If you like finding out cool things like this, please grow a garden. There’s lots of cool stuff to be found out there!

Need some help getting started? Check out these posts

Beginner Gardening Tips

Seed Starting For Beginners

Five Tomatoes You Should Grow

More Info

Visit these additional sites for some seriously awesome tomato hair pics and more info about trichomes.

What type of trichome is on tomato plants?

There are two types of trichomes – glandular and non-glandular. Tomatoes have both glandular and non-glandular types of trichomes. Wondering what trichomes look like? Here’s a microscopic view of tomato trichomes and how they interact with a thrip.

Here’s some more nerdy stuff if you like to know the technical details.

Biomechanics of trichome defense

The development of type VI glandular trichomes in the cultivated tomato

Overview of secretory and glandular trichomes.

The post What You Need To Know About The Hair On Your Tomato Plant appeared first on You Should Grow.

It’s a fast-growing plant if given appropriate conditions, but in indoor conditions, it’s often kinda slow to grow. That’s because it is often placed in the least ideal location, but that’s what makes the plant itself ideal. It will tolerate almost any lighting situation you give it. It’s actually one of the hardest plants to kill.

So if you’re looking for something that will survive your black thumb, snake plants are a good choice.

Snake Plant Care

Lighting: Sansevieria like bright indirect light – unless you’ve acclimated it to something else. They will tolerate just about anything from direct sun to complete shade. Yep. You can put one of these in a bathroom with no windows, and it will be a long time before it will suffer from lack of light. It won’t grow, mind you, but it won’t die either. It will be quite satisfied if you move it to a bright location during spring and back to the bath for winter.

Water: here again you are in luck with the snake plant because it is very tolerant of neglect. In fact, you can let it dry out completely between waterings and it won’t batt an eye. It’s much less tolerant of overwatering, though. So err on the side of caution and if you think you should water it, maybe wait a week and then water it.

Soil: being susceptible to root rot, make sure you grow your snake plant in sandy, well-draining soil. You can use a regular potting mix with added sand or perlite or just grab a bag of cactus soil for this guy. Avoid something with a lot of peat as it will retain water and may lead to problems. However, if you bought a healthy plant from a well-maintained nursery, you likely won’t need to repot your snake plant any time soon.

Fertilizer: in spring to fall, you can fertilize once a month with a succulent formula if needed. Unless your plant is growing quickly, be careful not to overdo the plant food. Since it’s a slow grower, it doesn’t need a lot of extra nutrients. Hold off on fertilizer in the winter.

Native conditions: in the wild, snake plants will grow in zones 9 and up. It does not like cold weather at all. Temps as low as 50F can cause damage and a frost will cause it to leave this earth. So for most of us, our snake plants will need to remain indoors most of the time. You can move it outside in the summer, but be careful not to shock a plant that’s been in low light with a sudden burst of direct light. You will get leaf burn that way.

Snake Plant Varieties

There are over 70 different species of Sansevieria, also known as Snake Plant or Mother-in-Law’s Tongue, which are native to Africa, Asia, and the Middle East. These plants are known for their hardy nature and ability to thrive in a variety of environments making them popular choices for use as houseplants. 

Dracaena trifasciata  formerly Sansevieria trifasciata

The snake plant, Laurentii, is perhaps the most well-known and widely cultivated species of Snake Plant. It has long, upright, sword-like leaves that are green with distinctive silver or grey stripes running horizontally and sometimes yellow streaks vertically along the length of the leaves. 

It’s a lovely houseplant and any indoor gardener would never turn one down. But if you want to get some different snake plant varieties (that are still easy to care for), have a look at these 10 unique snake plant varieties.

Sansevieria cylindrica – African Spear Plant

This species of Snake Plant is native to Angola and is characterized by its cylindrical leaves which are a deep green color. It is a slower-growing plant and is more drought-tolerant than some of the other species. It’s got a very interesting growth habit that can be left wild or braided for a more tamed aesthetic.

Whale Fin & Shark Fin

This species is native to West Africa and is characterized by its large, oval-shaped leaves which are a deep green color with lighter green or yellow stripes running along the length of the leaves. The big difference with the whale fin and shark fin varieties is that the leaves are very wide which makes them a very interesting houseplant especially when grown as a single specimen. It’s a minimalist, modern look that anyone can appreciate.

Blue Sansevieria aka Sansevieria ehrenbergii

With a striking growth pattern in the shape of a fan, you’ll love growing this unique snake plant. Another one of the cylindrical snake plant varieties, this one has such an interesting pattern of growth. In the right conditions this one can grow to be several feet long and wide so keep that in mind if it starts getting to big, you might want to propagate.

Sansevieria ‘Cleopatra’

Taking a break from the harsher lines of other snake plant varieties, Cleopatra has the sweetest scalloping along its leaves and a habit of growing in a rose pattern. This dwarf snake plant grows to about a foot tall, and if you see one in the store grab it. This is one of those rare snake plant varieties that are harder and harder to come by.

Sansevieria ballyi

Bursting with clusters of small plants, ballyi is a very interesting type of snake plant. Its cylindrical leaves grow in small rosettes making them a variety that is sometimes grown as a dwarf. However, if kept healthy dozens of the clusters can grow from the same plant making a wild and interesting living thing. Anyone else think they look like the shrimp hands from Beetlejuice?

Sansevieria Kirkii

Sansevieria kirkii is known for its long, scalloped leaves which are green with distinctive silver or grey stripes. Sansevieria kirkii is a good choice for use in indoor spaces because it remains small and can tolerate low light conditions. It is also said to purify the air by removing toxins, making it a popular choice for use in homes and offices.

Golden hahnii

This is a cultivar of Sansevieria trifasciata and is characterized by its small, compact size and short, narrow leaves which are green with distinctive yellow stripes. It’s also known as the bird’s nest snake plant because of it’s diminutive growth.

Sansevieria gracilis

This species is native to West Africa and is characterized by its narrow cylindrical leaves which are a light green color with darker green stripes running horizontally along the length of the leaves.

Tornado and Twister Snake Plant

If you’re looking for something with curves, you can’t go wrong with these two. Their dark green leaves twist and twirl earning them a name after the spinning winds of the midwest. A dwarf snake plant hybrid variety, the tornado and twister snake plants are great for bringing life and greenery into small spaces and offices. Twisted sister snake plant has a similar look.

Moonshine

With a lovely sage green color, the moonshine snake plant is a pleasure to behold. It’s a nice break from the streaks and stripes of other snake plant colors. The silvery green color can be affected by lighting so if you notice your plant darkening up, give her a boost of light to encourage that paler sheen.

In addition to the above species, there are many other types of Snake Plants available for cultivation, including hybrids and cultivars. Some of these are more rare and may be difficult to find, while others are more widely available. Regardless of the specific type, Snake Plants are generally easy to care for and make great plants for both experienced gardeners and those who are new to plant care.

Propagating Snake Plants

Now that you have your favorite snake plants at home, you’ll be glad to know that they are quite easy to propagate. While you can also grow snake plants from seed, it’s slower and has a high failure rate. Fortunately taking leaf cuttings from snake plants is easy peasy.

1. Cut a section off of a healthy leaf. Cutting into a point like the natural shape of the leaf helps to hide the scar and makes it easy to remember which end goes up. Lay it on a paper towel and set it aside for a day to let the cut end dry. This helps to prevent rot on the cut end.
2. After it’s dried, dip the cut end in rooting hormone and place it into soil or water depending on how your preference. It will root well with either method. As far as soil, choose a well draining potting mix, like a succulent mix. If it’s in water, change the water every couple of days to a week. If it’s in soil, water it well and keep it slightly moist for a few weeks while it’s developing new roots.
3. After a few weeks, you can repot your new snake plant into any container that pleases you.

Regardless of which method you choose, it is important to keep the soil moist (but not soggy) and to provide the young plants with plenty of light in order to encourage healthy growth. With proper care, your propagated Snake Plants should thrive and grow into healthy, mature plants.

How do I know when my snake plant needs to be repotted?

You won’t need to repot your snake plant very often. It is common to let them stay in the same pot for 2-3 years at a time…unless it’s growing rapidly and is showing signs of stress. Here are a few signs that may indicate that it is time to repot your Snake Plant:

1. The plant is pot-bound – If you notice that the roots of your Snake Plant are growing out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot, or if you see roots visibly growing above the soil surface, it is likely time to repot the plant.
2. The plant is overcrowded – If you have multiple Snake Plants growing in the same pot and they are starting to crowd each other, it may be time to repot them into separate pots to allow for proper growth.
3. It starts to need water more often – plants that are severely root bound will use up water at an increased rate. If you’re finding that your plant is needing more frequent watering, check the roots to see if it’s rootbound and repot if needed.

In general, the best time to repot houseplants is in the spring when the plant is just starting to come out of its dormant period. This will give the plant plenty of time to adjust to its new pot and soil before the growing season begins. When repotting a Snake Plant, choose a pot that is one size larger than the original pot. Make sure it has drainage holes and use a well-draining cactus mix to minimize the risk of root rot.

What’s wrong with my snake plant?

There are a few common problems that people may encounter when growing Snake Plants (Sansevieria), including the following:

Yellowing leaves – One of the most common problems with Snake Plants is yellowing leaves. This is most frequently caused by over-watering or possibly a lack of sunlight. If your plant’s leaves are yellowing, the first thing to do is check the moisture level of the soil. If it’s soggy and has a bad odor, get that baby out of there asap. Take a look at all the roots and remove anything slimy and black then repot in fresh soil and don’t overwater it. If you do happen to overwater your snake plant, you can move it to an area with more light. Increased light will encourage it to use up the water in the soil more quickly.

Drooping leaves – If the leaves of your Snake Plant start to wilt or droop, it could be a sign that the plant is getting too much water or not enough light. Alternatively, if the soil is loose and unsupportive, the plant can sag or fall over. Make sure you have filled your snake plant’s pot with quality, well draining soil.

Brown tips on leaves – If the tips of the leaves on your Snake Plant start to turn brown, it could be a sign of over-watering or under-watering. Make sure you are watering the plant consistently and that the soil is well-draining to prevent this problem.

Make sure to address any issues as soon as they arise. Plants undergoing stress are more likely to get infested with houseplant pests.

Common houseplant pests on snake plants

Like any plant, Snake Plants (Sansevieria) can occasionally be susceptible to pests. Some common pests that may affect Snake Plants include mealybugs, aphids, and spider mites. Mealybugs are small, white, cottony insects that feed on the sap of the plant and can cause leaves to yellow and wilt. Aphids are small, green or black insects that feed on the sap of the plant and can cause leaves to curl and become distorted. Spider mites are tiny, spider-like insects that feed on the sap of the plant and can cause leaves to yellow and become mottled.

If you notice any of these pests on your Snake Plant, there are a few steps you can take to control them:

1. Isolate the affected plant – If you have multiple plants, it is a good idea to isolate the affected plant to prevent the pests from spreading to other plants.
2. Remove the pests – If the infestation is small, you may be able to remove the pests by spraying your plant with water or place a sticky fly trap if they’re flying insects.
3. Use a pesticide – If the infestation is more severe, you may need to use a pesticide to control the pests. There are many different pesticides available for use on houseplants, but many minor infestations can be controlled with organic neem oil solutions.

It is also a good idea to practice good cultural care to help prevent pests from becoming a problem. This includes keeping the plant well-watered and fertilized, and providing it with proper lighting and ventilation. By following these simple steps, you can help to keep your Snake Plant healthy and pest-free.

Do all types of snake plants clean the air?

One of the most interesting things about Snake Plants (Sansevieria) is their ability to purify the air by removing toxins. These plants are said to be able to absorb toxins such as formaldehyde, benzene, and trichloroethylene from the air, making them a recommended choice for use in homes and offices. In fact, a study conducted by NASA found that Snake Plants are among the most effective plants at removing toxins from the air and improving indoor air quality.

Are snake plants poisonous to pets?

Technically, yes. Snake plants are poisonous to people and pets, so it is not recommended to eat them. Symptoms of poisoning can vary from mild gastrointestinal upset (vomiting and diarrhea) to numbness and swelling of the mouth and throat. If you’re concerned about snake plant poisoning, please see a medical professional immediately.

Overall snake plants are excellent choices for novice and experienced indoor gardeners. You can hardly kill them, they’re so generous and forgiving. Just make sure you don’t OVER water and you should be able to enjoy all these snake plant varieties and benefits for many years.

The post 10 Unique Snake Plant Varieties You’ll Want To Grow appeared first on You Should Grow.

While we should all be proud of our bodies, it’s not always appropriate to parade around in our birthday suits. If you choose to indulge in some bare naked planting, we suggest you keep it classy.

So today, we’re sharing 20+ posts that illustrate the best and worst ways to celebrate World Naked Gardening Day. This post was updated on 12/28/22.

What is World Naked Gardening Day?

According to Wikipedia, World Naked Gardening Day (WNGD) was introduced in 2005 as a nudist movement to discourage body shaming and encourage acceptance of all forms of the human body. And it’s really meant to encourage going au naturale in nature to experience a true connection to the green earth.

But you might argue that naked gardening has been ‘a thing’ since the garden of Eden.

“Perhaps indeed he or she to whom the free exhilarating ecstasy of nakedness in Nature has never been eligible (and how many thousands there are!) has not really known what purity is— nor what faith or art or health really is.”

–Walt Whitman, Specimen Days

Today World Naked Gardening Day is celebrated by light-hearted and fun-loving gardeners around the world.

If you enjoy this humorous take on WNGD, then you’re sure to like my tongue-in-cheek post about why gardening is sexy, 

Do a search for #worldnakedgardeningday on any social network, you’re sure to find plenty of people sharing images of their adventures on WNGD.

I’ll admit I was nervous to look up pictures of how others had celebrated Naked Gardening Day, but most gardeners were really quite classy about it and I got a good laugh. After all, we are the only beings blessed with a sense of humor, and awkward + naked = funny. Every time.

While many gardeners opted to cover their goodies with some form of foliage, others were more creative. And it made me think about some of the things I would definitely NOT do on WNGD.

1. Plant roses

While WNGD is a great day to do some planting, stay away from thorny bushes like roses and bougainvillea.

Or what about this guy who decided to bee keeping? Yikes. That’s ballsy.

Instead choose something more appropriate like Peter Pepper, Teton de Venus tomato, and German Johnson tomato.

2. Re-pot your cacti

Of all the things I can think of to do on WNGD, working with spiny succulents doesn’t make it on the list. You could easily get yourself into a sticky situation!

3. Go to the community garden

While I’m all for being unashamed of the naked body, I don’t really want to see what everyone looks like naked. For that reason, I recommend against gardening at the community garden on May 5th.

And for the sake of your neighbors, perhaps avoid trimming the low hedges in your front yard…

4. Fire up the hedge trimmer

In fact, I would think twice about using any power tools while partaking in World Naked Gardening Day.

5. Forget to bring props

When you’re baring all, you might feel more comfortable with a prop. Think outside the box! Sub in your favorite action figure or cover up with a tiny flamingo watering can. Hahahaha

6. Forget to put on sunblock

If you’re going to bare all to the sun, make sure you’re wearing sunblock! And you don’t want to be asking just any random person to help you with your back.

For this reason, I think Naked Gardening Day is best celebrated with that special someone. Even if you never make it out to the garden…

7. Pose in a wheelbarrow

Because what if you fall out and bruise your booty?

8. Squat in the bushes

I’m sure this guy was very careful with his placement when he got down and dirty with his plants, but it seems risky to dip your twig and berries into some twigs and berries.

9. Use sticky fly traps to cover your goodies

Instant regret

10. Forget a way to carry your cell phone

For listening to your favorite tunes of course.

Or just keep your pants around your ankles. LOL

11. Don’t do it alone

The best way to celebrate any day is to have some fun with someone you love.

Here are some things we should do on World Naked Gardening Day

I think it’s a great idea to get out and have some fun on WNGD, and it’s empowering to bare all. Most importantly, don’t be embarrassed. If you’re going to commit to a naked gardening day, then go all the way for it and have some fun!

Have fun with it

There’s something inherently funny about nudity. We should all be proud of our bodies, but let’s also give in to the fact that there’s a lot of awkwardness around being unclothed outdoors.

Include the pets

Especially if you also have a naked cat!

Or this pup who very tastefully posed with his plant.

Invite your friends

It’s always a good day to enjoy the company of your favorite people … just make sure they’re aware of the dress code.

Stay in your comfort zone

If you kinda want to participate but you’re feeling shy, feel free to just bathe in the garden. Don’t forget the beer.

Even news stations are getting in on the fun:

Here are some tips for trimming your bushes on WNGD:

Are you celebrating World Naked Gardening Day?

Share your plans in the comments below!

The post 11 Things You Shouldn’t Do On World Naked Gardening Day appeared first on You Should Grow.

How to make your plants grow faster

No matter what plant you’re growing, there are 3 things all plants need to grow at their fastest pace.

Light: Even low-light plants need some light. If you don’t have a sunny window, simply twist a grow light bulb in a lamp you already have and place it near your plants. Moving your plants to more light will instantly encourage them to grow faster. Just know that when they grow faster they will need more watering and fertilizer attention.

Watering: Overwatering is a very common reason for houseplant problems. There is no one size fits all watering schedule for plants. The type of plant and the environment it’s living in dictate watering needs. When you do water, make sure to water thoroughly.

Fertilizer: Your plants need basic nutrients to be especially lush, so make sure you’re adding some liquid fertilizer in your waterings or add slow-release granules or sticks to your potting medium. Follow the directions on your fertilizer bottle as you can easily overdo it and kill your plants. It’s normal for plants to slow growth or go dormant in the winter, but if you’re maintaining an indoor environment keep giving them a boost as long as you see new growth.

Fast growing indoor plants require more maintenance

Repotting: you’ll need to make sure your fast growing plants aren’t overgrowing their containers. Check to make sure the roots are not coming out of the drainage holes or twisting around and around the sides of the root ball.

Crowding: along those same lines, bigger plants need more space to have adequate ventilation. Make sure you are giving the plant the room it needs to grow big. Touching walls and other plants can discourage its growth.

Soil requirements: a plant can only be as healthy as the soil it is grown in. The largest concern is overwatered and wet soil which can lead to root rot and all kinds of bad things for your plants. Each plant prefers a different type of soil, but make sure you’re using quality brands and ingredients (the same goes for your fertilizer as well).

Things that slow the growth of your plants

• Not giving them enough light
• Inconsistent or incomplete watering
• Smothering them in soggy soil
• Not providing adequate nutrients
• Keeping them in too small of a container

What are some fast-growing, easy-to-care-for houseplants?

If you want your plant to grow fast, it’s going to be higher maintenance. It will need more water and more fertilizer and will need to be repotted sooner. However, some of the plants listed here need so little care that you could easily create a perfect balance of new growth rewards with relatively low maintenance. So if you’re wanting to know what plants grow the fastest, check out these 20 picks.

Heart Leaf Philodendron

Talk about an easy keeper, pretty much anyone can keep a philodendron alive. And she’ll happily grow as long as you give her simple care. In ideal conditions, you can grow your philodendron up your wall and around the corner. If you don’t have the space, simply keep her pruned back to suit your needs.

Spider Plant

If you love to propagate your plants, this guy is sure to please you. Lovely bright variegated leaves, and it sprouts babies like gangbusters. Often grown in hanging planters, spider plants droop and drip over their containers to a gardener’s delight.

Epipremnum aureum, Pothos

Similar to the philodendron, the pothos is a vining beauty that will happily grow and grow as long as you give it the space. Being so prolific, in some areas, it’s known as devil’s ivy. It’s also easy to propagate so you could buy a single plant and quickly fill your home with its lovely greenery.

Peace Lily

Peace lilies are frequently given as gifts and touted as tolerant of low light. But if you want it to grow fast, give it bright light, keep the soil consistently moist (but not soggy), and fertilize monthly. Re pot it as needed because its roots are growing as much as the leaves.

Fast Growing Succulents

Looking for plants that will grow fast and like the least watering? Succulents are known for needing infrequent watering, but when you do water make sure you water thoroughly. Check out these quick spreading succulent varieties that don’t require a lot of maintenance.

Pilea peperomioides, Chinese Money Plant

Also known as the friendship plant, Pilea makes a very cute and forgiving houseplant. If given adequate light and not over-watered, this cutie will thrive and is sure to please. Super easy to propagate and share with friends, or leave the pups with the mother and let it fill out.

Jade Plant

Known for being a low-maintenance plant, Jade is a great houseplant for beginners. Its number one concern is not being overwatered. This succulent is said to bring luck to those who care for it and makes a great housewarming gift.

Aloe vera

Practically a household necessity, keeping a live aloe vera plant in your house is essential for your first aid kit. It’s fairly low maintenance, but can grow quite large and produce little pups spreading both upward and outward.

Hoya obovata

A unique and beautiful plant, the hoya obovata is one of the fastest-growing hoyas and tends to be the least finicky. It does prefer bright indirect light and really dislikes overwatering, so if yours isn’t growing like gangbusters, consider whether it’s getting the right care.

Dracaena trifasciata (aka Snake Plant, Mother-in-law Tongue)

Known to be one of the hardest houseplants to kill, the snake plant is an easy keeper that will adapt to pretty much any surroundings. If you want it to grow fast and furious though, keep it under bright light and fertilize monthly. They can grow quite large so be prepared to re-pot as needed.

Dracaena Sanderiana (aka Lucky Bamboo)

This classic houseplant is a symbol of good fortune (except in groups of 4 stalks) and requires little care. It’s quite happy grown in water or cactus soil. Did you know it’s not actually a bamboo, but more closely related to the snake plant above? That said, it makes an easy-care houseplant that anyone can be proud of.

Unique Looking Houseplants

These plants may not be rare, but they do have a unique look that sets them apart from others on this list. Bringing in a variety of colors, shapes, and textures increases the beauty of your houseplant displays.

Gynura aurantiaca (aka Purple Passion Plant, Velvet Plant)

You’ll love the rich colors and texture of the velvet plant. Bright purple and magenta with a sweet fuzzy leaf, it’s low maintenance and a nice change from all the green. To achieve deeper color in the leaves, give them more light (but avoid direct sun or it will burn them).

Asparagus Fern

Left wild and crazy or neatly trimmed into a bushy mound, the asparagus fern is a welcome addition to your houseplant collection. With fine, whispy leaves growing on long drooping stems, it will be most happy in a humid room like your bathroom or kitchen. Keeping up with watering may be the biggest challenge, but the final result is definitely worth the effort. While there are several types of asparagus ferns, A. aethiopicus is the variety most commonly grown indoors.

Monstera Deliciosa, Split-leaf philodendron

Oh monstera, thou art the most famous of houseplants. And for good reason, their uniquely shaped (and quite large) leaves are just so iconically beautiful. It’s such a pleasure to grow and watch the leaves mature from solid to their famous swiss cheese appearance. Remember this is actually a vining plant so as it gets bigger, you’ll need to support it with a moss pole or similar design.

What are the fastest growing indoor plants?

If quick growth is the main goal, these pretty plants are among the fastest growing on this list. You might even find that it outgrows your space sooner than expected. In addition to philodendron, pothos, and spider plants the following plants are the fastest growing houseplants. In fact, they’re so fast you’ll need to add ‘prune houseplants’ to your monthly to-do list.

English Ivy

Whether you’re looking to cover a wall or a pretty trellis, an English ivy plant will quickly provide results. It’s an easy keeper indoors, too, and with several varieties of leaf shapes and colors, you’re sure to find a look that suits your aesthetic.

Mint

An uncommon houseplant, however, mint is one of the few herbs that will tolerate an indoor environment. In the garden, it’s known to be invasive and in the right conditions, you can get similar growth indoors. Plus, it’s a wonderful cooking herb – personally, my favorite addition to any tea.

Syngonium podophyllum, Arrowhead Plant

Left to itself in the right conditions, the arrowhead plant will send out its lovely vines in every direction. Be prepared to stake and clip this plant up your walls, along your ceiling, and anywhere it wants to go. It does enjoy high humidity, so it’s a great choice for your bathroom as well.

Tradescantia zebrina (aka Wandering Jew, Wandering Sailor)

Any of the Jews (plants not humans) are quick to form a very lovely mound of growth. Especially pretty in hanging containers, you will love the purple variegated leaves of this variety. It’s happy to grow in a sunny window, and you may even get frustrated by how frequently it needs to be pruned (or propagated).

Fast-growing indoor trees

Growing indoor trees is popular for making a statement in your home decor. Growing a tree may require more maintenance, but if you’re down for the challenge try one of the following big beauties.

Dracaena trifasciata, Fiddle Leaf Fig

Known to be finicky, the fiddle leaf fig is still a very popular houseplant. Just look at its giant yet elegant leaves and you’ll understand the appeal. Also, it requires a delicate balance of attention and neglect, so figuring out how to get it healthy and beautiful in your space will certainly bring bragging rights among your houseplant friends.

Dieffenbachia (Dumb Cane)

With large graceful leaves that almost look fake, this is a popular choice for making a statement in your home or office. Healthy dieffenbachia can grow to 6′ tall and 3′ wide. To improve humidity around this plant, set it on a tray of pebbles with a little water, place it in your kitchen or bathroom, or simply group it with several other plants to improve humidity.

Weeping Fig / Ficus

The ficus houseplant is quite versatile being grown in small bonsai style or as large 6-foot trees. It’s a fast growing plant, and you may need to prune it often to keep it an appropriate size for indoors. In their native environment, these trees have been known to grow up to 60 feet tall!

Rubber Plant

Maturing up to 10 feet tall, rubber plants are hardy and forgiving when grown indoors. Things it doesn’t like include too much water, a spot that is drafty (like next to a door you use frequently or directly in front of an a/c vent), and being moved around a lot. So pick the right spot, leave it there, and just don’t forget to water it.

Growing an indoor jungle

Choosing plants that grow quickly can be a source of pleasure and pride. Make sure you’re choosing plants that are most appropriate for your space so you don’t get frustrated. If you’re not getting the results you want, consider each plant individually and run through this short checklist.

1. Is it in a bad location? Most houseplants don’t want to be right under or in front of an a/c vent. It not only changes the temperature of the air around them but can dry them out very quickly. In the winter, make sure they aren’t sitting next to a drafty window that could be giving them the chills every night.
2. Is it getting appropriate light? Most indoor plant enthusiasts invest in one (or 50) full spectrum grow lights sooner or later. No, it’s not too much to get each plant its own light if you need to. It brightens up your space and makes your plants happy.
3. Did I f-up the watering? All plants have a goldilocks zone for watering – not too much, not too little, but juuust right. Some of them have great big goldilocks zones that give you plenty of wiggle room which makes growing them much easier. But others are going to be very sensitive to any inconsistency in their watering. If your plant seems unhappy, do some research about how and when it likes to be watered – and perhaps whether it should to be distilled or filtered.
4. How is the soil? Last but not least, check on the health of the soil in your plant’s pot. Stick your finger or a wooden skewer down to check the moisture. If it’s soggy, you may even want to remove the plant and check for root rot. Remove brown mushy roots and leaves and repot with fresh soil. If it’s not rotted, then when was the last time you fertilized or repotted it? While the plant is growing, most will enjoy a houseplant fertilizer once monthly. As far as repotting, some plants will tolerate or even thrive in a root-bound pot, but others will wilt and pout until they’re given more space.

Sit back and enjoy fresher air

Once you have your favorite greenery surrounding you indoors, you’ll never want to live without them. It’s not just that they are a reminder of the beauty of life, but they refresh and purify your indoor air through photosynthesis making you healthier and happier. It’s true, studies have suggested that having a living wall of plants can actually improve your quality of life. And it only makes sense, right? Humans are not meant to live in sealed up little boxes.

What’s your favorite fast growing houseplant? Share your thoughts below.

The post 20 Fast Growing Houseplants That Will Liven Up Any Space appeared first on You Should Grow.

When you see a tomato plant wilting, you’re left wondering:

Is it just thirsty or does it have a disease?

In some cases, you just need to adjust your watering schedule and your plant will be fine. But sometimes, wilting is a symptom of infectious disease that can ruin your entire crop. There are some clues that can help you distinguish between them, and in this post, I’m going to go over the causes of tomato wilt and what you need to do to help your plant recover.

What causes tomato plant wilting?

Tomato wilt is a symptom of dis-ease that makes the tomato plant leaves droop and lose their shape. Wilting is most commonly a sign that your plants need water, and all plants will respond this way to dehydration. If the soil is dry and your plant is droopy with flat, thin leaves, you probably just need to water it. It should recover, but if it got too dry or this happens very often, don’t expect a good crop off of that plant.

On the flip side, too much water can cause wilting of plants. In this case, the soil around the plant will be wet and the leaves will droop but stay hydrated. Let the plant dry out and watch it for the next couple of days to see how it does. Don’t water again until the top inch of soil is dry. Container plants will also need some fertilizer as nutrients were likely washed out with the overwatering.

Pro Tip:

Watering tomato plants is a balancing act. Tomatoes need even moisture, and they don’t respond well to periods of dry or soggy soil. Water stress can lead to problems like tasteless fruit, blossom end rot, and cracking and even facilitate the spread of disease.

Other environmental causes of wilt in tomato plants

Tomatoes that experience a frost will wilt and not recover. The freezing of the water in their cells causes them to burst thus killing the plant. Also, certain trees like the black walnut, will stunt the growth and cause wilting of many plants including tomatoes. It is recommended not to plant under or near a walnut tree. If you’re looking at your wilted plant and there’s not an environmental issue causing wilt, then you might be dealing with one of the infectious causes of wilt.

Infectious causes of tomato wilt

When experienced gardeners and farmers talk about wilt, they are often talking about an infectious disease. Tomato wilt can be caused by many types of viral, bacterial, and fungal infections that can infect and destroy your entire crop. That’s why it’s very important to determine whether your plant is having a physiological response to stress or it’s come down with a sickness and you need to get it out of your garden asap.

There are several common causes of infectious wilt:

Tomato spotted wilt virus

Tomato spotted wilt virus is an infection that is can be seen worldwide. This viral infection is transmitted by several species of thrips which are tiny biting insects that find hosts on tomatoes and many other plants.

TSWV is not a disease of just tomatoes, but can also be found on peppers, potatoes, and several other flower and weed species. Symptoms vary by strain of virus, species of plant infected, and age of plant infected.

On tomatoes, symptoms usually appear on the youngest/growing portions of the plant. While signs of infection vary on a case by case basis, plants usually exhibit one or more of the following symptoms:

• Leaves turn a brown/bronze color and may curl upward
• Leaves can get clusters of small black spots
• Wilting and death of the growing portions of the plant.
• Both green and ripe fruit are lumpy with ring-shaped marks

Unfortunately, there is no way to treat infection with TSWV and infected plants should be culled and burned or tossed into the trash. You can send your plant for testing at your local university extension service if you want a firm diagnosis.

To prevent the spread, you really need to focus on getting rid of the thrips. If I knew they were spreading TSWV, I would skip all the horticultural oils and treat instead with either PyGanic or Naturalyte. Both of which are organic approved pesticides.

My preference is for Naturalyte because the active ingredient, spinosad, has no residual effect on pollinators, but PyGanic is a sure bet to get rid of your pest problem. In either case, avoid spraying when bees and other pollinators are active.

Fusarium wilt

Fusarium wilt is a fungal infection common in areas with warm, moist weather. The fungus lives in the soil and enters the plants via their root system.

As it spreads, it grows up the inside of the tomato plant to the stem and branches via the vascular system. This clogging of its vascular system is what causes the symptoms of wilting and stunted growth. You’ll first notice the lower leaves turn yellow and start to die. Sometimes only one side or branch is affected at first, but eventually infected plants die.

This fungal disease is persistent in the soil indefinitely so the only recourse is planting resistant plants (indicated by the letter F after the name) or growing in new/sterilized containers and potting soil. Do not compost – destroy infected plants.

verticillium wilt

Verticillium wilt is very similar to fusarium wilt, but is more common in the north and favors cool moist soils. Verticillium wilt does not kill tomato plants but rather causes a drastic decrease in vigor and production.

Symptoms appear later in the season and include yellow discoloration of the older (lower) leaves of the plant. On the leaf, yellowing often begins in a v-shape and eventually extends to the whole leaf. The plant will wilt during the day but recover at night. Fruit may set but are smaller and fewer in numbers.

Both Fusarium and Verticillium will be evident if you cut open the stem of affected plants. You’ll see a brown to black discoloration of the vascular system whereas a healthy stem is only shades of green.

While there are ways to tell the difference, it can be very difficult to distinguish between verticillium and fusarium wilt in the field. So if you want to know which your property is affected with, you’ll need to send your plants to your local university extension office.

Like Fusarium, once verticillium is established in the soil, it will remain indefinitely. There is no way to treat or prevent infection so the only course of action is to plant resistant varieties (look for resistance label V) or plant in new containers and soil. Don’t compost – destroy infected plants

Bacterial Wilt

Caused by the bacterium Ralstonia (Pseudomonas) solanacearum, bacterial wilt works in the same way as the fungal wilts. The bacteria grow in and lead to the death of tomato plants. This bacteria thrives in hot and wet soils and once established remains infective for many years.

Bacterial wilt can be distinguished from other forms of wilt at home. Compared to the fungal wilts, bacterial wilt causes wilting of the youngest (uppermost) leaves. Leaves do not turn yellow but rather stay green. When you cut the stem of tomato plants infected with bacterial wilt, you’ll see a white milky substance instead of the brown growth of the fungi.

When freshly cut stems are placed in a glass of water, you can see the white substance draining from inside. If you notice these symptoms and suspect your plant is infected with bacterial wilt, pull it out of the garden right away and dispose of it. Don’t compost – destroy infected plants.

The only method of control for bacterial wilt is planting resistant varieties or grafted plants on resistant rootstock. There is no treatment for infected plants or soil. If you confirm the presence of bacterial wilt in your garden, you’ll do better to plant tomatoes in containers from now on.

Root knot Nematodes

Nematodes are tiny wormlike creatures that infest and feed on tomato roots. Their presence causes knots or galls of the roots and damages their ability to take up food and water. Symptoms of root knot nematodes include wilting, stunted growth, and pale color. You’ll also see the knots or galls on the roots of the plants.

You can find tomato varieties that are resistant to nematodes as indicated by the letter ‘N’ after the variety name. Nematode numbers can be decreased by growing resistant varieties for several seasons. However, when susceptible varieties are then planted, numbers of nematodes will rise again.

Also affects pepper, cucumber, squash, eggplant, and okra.

Southern Blight

Another fungal disease, southern blight causes sudden wilting and death of the entire plant. Also known as Southern Wilt and Southern Stem Rot, the fungus enters the stem at the soil line causing the plant to suddenly wilt and die. Infection leaves a telltale dry brown rotten spot around the base of the stem which may develop a white moldy growth in high moisture situations.

The fungus lives in the top 2-3 inches of soil and high temps and wet, acidic soils encourage growth. Once the fungus is established in the soil, it can be hard to get rid of it. Grow tomatoes in raised beds or containers or grow nonsusceptible crops (corn and cover crops) for a minimum of 2 years before planting tomatoes in that area again.

Dealing with tomato wilt

Beyond optimizing your watering schedule, the best recourse for dealing with tomato wilt is to plant resistant varieties. Look for resistance label VFN, and keep in mind that many resistant tomatoes are hybrids…and it’s okay to grow hybrids even in an organic garden.

Some of my favorite wilt-resistant tomatoes are:

• Sungold
• Big Beef
• Polbig

But there are several options for you to look through at Johnny’s seed supply.

Have you lost tomato plants to tomato wilt disease?

Tell us about your experience in the comments below.

This post was updated on 12/24/22 to improve format

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